A Weekend in West Hollywood
It’s difficult to properly describe all of what encapsulates West Hollywood. It’s the heartbeat of Los Angeles, the epicentre of rock ‘n roll history, the place where, even today, outcasts come together to find refuge.
Nestled between the luxurious Beverly Hills and the historic Hollywood, the history of West Hollywood is equal parts colourful and chaotic; infamous and iconic. Speaking true to its past disorderly nature, the city once formally known as “Sherman” was unincorporated — loosely kept in check by the Los Angeles County Sheriff’s Department but not enough to prevent the likes of mobsters like Bugsy Segal and Mickey Cohen to run amok and have everyone making a pit stop to illegally gamble and drink back in the 20s.
There’s a reason why creatives, free spirits, and the like have felt a gravitational pull towards West Hollywood for decades. Although WeHo’s entire sprawl is less than 5 kms, it is the heartbeat of Los Angeles and the place to be if you want to retrace the same steps of those who have walked (or partied) throughout the city since its inception. From Led Zeppelin destroying hotel rooms on the Sunset Strip to Janis Joplin eating her final meal at Barney’s Beanery before her untimely death, West Hollywood is a melting pot of people, diversity, purposes, and so much more.
Today, West Hollywood still brings together an eclectic mix of people and talent and further demonstrates the city’s uniqueness on every street — whether its the historic LGBTQ+ neighbourhood and gay villages or the art galleries, fashion labels, or restaurants that inhabit Melrose Avenue. It’s much more than a cultural hub, but a place where culture and creativity is being created and thriving.
As 1883 Magazine’s resident ‘70s lover, Editor Kelsey Barnes hopped on a Virgin flight to visit West Hollywood and learn more about its extensive history, uncover the secrets of the Sunset Strip, where to stay, eat, and visit, and so, so much more.
Where To Stay in West Hollywood
Imagine you’re one of the biggest rock stars of the ‘70s — think the level of Bruce Springsteen or Neil Diamond — and you’re an LA transplant looking for somewhere to stay. It’s likely that you’d end up at the Sunset Marquis. If you’re a music and pop culture connoisseur, the hotel shouldn’t need an introduction as it defines the word “iconic” in regards to music history.
Perfectly placed between Beverly Hills and Hollywood, Sunset Marquis Hotel is an oasis in the middle of one of the busiest (and loudest) cities in the world. Where some hotels directly sit along the Sunset Strip, the Sunset Marquis is seemingly out of view; away from the prying eyes of tourists and fans and everyone else in between. The hotel consists of over 150 suits and villas scattered throughout the lush 3.5 acres of greenery in addition to their famous indoor-outdoor restaurant Cavatina, pools, and spas.
What sets Sunset Marquis apart from every other hotel in West Hollywood is, of course, its history. Steps from the Sunset Strip, a walk to the legendary locations — like The Comedy Store, Melrose Place, The Grove, and Whisky a Go-Go — that attract its high-profile guests. It’s normal for Rod Stewart to film an entire music video at the pool by the lobby, have 1970s Keith Richards in a villa window admiring the view, or see one of its past long-term guests like Kate Hudson.
As a true pillar of pop culture, the Sunset Marquis Hotel is home to both NightBird Recording Studios and the Morrison Hotel Gallery. Keeping in line with being a private oasis, NightBird Recording Studios is hidden in plain sight. A famous recording studio for the likes of A-list and GRAMMY award winning musicians like Katy Perry, John Legend, The 1975, Bob Dylan and a myriad of others have all found refuge to record at one of NightBird’s 3 cozy studios located underneath the hotel. While visiting, the managers of the studio provided a free tour throughout each of the studios that included a rundown of who has recorded there as of late.
The Morrison Hotel Gallery might be housed at the Sunset Marquis, but it serves as a home to a photographic shrine that doubles as a time capsule dedicated to those music icons throughout the decades. The gallery, which was founded in 2001 by former record company executive and producer Peter Blachley, music industry professional Richard Horowitz, and music photographer Henry Diltz, is a collection of motifs and images captured by world renowned photographers. It is the place to find a fine art music photography that embodies both the spirit of the decades that have passed and the insight and intimacy found between a photographer and their subject. While chatting with gallery director Jamie Bucherer, it’s inevitable to find yourself discussing rock ‘n roll muses like Pattie Boyd, who hosted an Instagram session with the gallery during the pandemic.
If you’re lucky to run into Rod Gruendyke, the Sunset Marquis’ manager, he might pull up a chair at dinner and let you be privy to some stories about 90s bands getting barred from the hotel (only to ask to come back) or to let you know that you’re dining next to the offspring of a member of one of the biggest British bands of all time.
That’s just a regular day at the Sunset Marquis.
What To Do in West Hollywood
Despite only stretching across the aforementioned 5 kms, West Hollywood contains some of the must-see places if you’re looking to visit Los Angeles. Better yet, for a city that solely relies on cars, Ubers and public transit, the City of West Hollywood is walkable — especially if you’re bar hopping on Sunset. Whether you’re eager to explore WeHo by foot or by pedal, there is a way to get the intel and gritty stories not found on Wiki told by those who have lived in the city.
Seeing West Hollywood while cruising on an e-bike might not be the first thing you think to do when visiting, but there isn’t anything quite like cruising down Rodeo Drive in a bright fluorescent safety vest. On our first day we took an intimate and private tour with Bikes and Hikes throughout Beverly Hills, exploring what might be the most famous neighbourhood on the globe. Our informative guide provided us with an entire background into the creation of WeHo before it was deemed a city, the mysteries surrounding Greystone Mansion, the famous “Witch” house and so much more.
If you’re looking to be shown around by someone who has lived and rocked on the strip, a guided tour by John D’Amico is your best bet. His Rock ‘n Walk tour lasts for a full 3 and a half hours and is navigated by D’Amico who, at every turn, shares insider stories (and a lot of secrets) about those who worked, played, and partied on the strip.
From stories of the Whisky a Go Go and The Viper Room to anecdotes about the true tales of artists like The Doors. Outside of Jon D’Amico’s (sometimes firsthand) accounts and stories of West Hollywood, what makes the tour special is that each one is different — some found themselves at after parties at swanky hotels, others ran into the same rockstars they were being told about while on said tour. As a former punk bassist and stage manager for the likes of Guns & Roses, there isn’t anyone else you want to be showing you around West Hollywood.
In West Hollywood it’s not all about the music, though. The Academy Museum of Motion Pictures is a love letter to the movies and those who create them. Opening late 2021 and spanning over 300,000-square-feet, the museum carries over 13 million artefacts, like costumes, scripts, props, and the like, dating all the way back to 1927. In particular, during the visit the exhibit on the history of Black cinema through 1971. From floor to floor, you dive into the minds of creatives, collaborators, and the fools who dared to dream (a la La La Land) to head to Hollywood from the Golden Age to today in order to chase their passions. And if you’re wondering what it’s like to get your special Oscar-winning moment, the Oscars Experience — a video capturing you holding a real (and heavy) statue and waving to the adoring crowd — is one that will cause an influx of laughter and cheer.
Where to Eat in West Hollywood
The eateries throughout West Hollywood are as eclectic as the people and places that make up the city. While visiting, we had breakfast at the famous The Butcher, The Baker & The Cappuccino Maker and spotted a celebrity or two while drinking our artisanal colour-burst lattes. The mix of culinary delights is showcased seamlessly in WeHo, from Gracias Madre, a plant-based traditional Mexican cuisine restaurant, to the Asian fusion cuisine prepared at Wolfgang Puck’s Merois, to the French-inspired brunch at patisserie & café Bottega Louie. If variety is the spice of life, WeHo demonstrates that the food landscape in West Hollywood truly is as varied as it is delectable.
Visiting West Hollywood
Whether you’re a pop culture aficionado, a lover of history, or just a fan of exploring a place that has so much more than what meets the eye, a visit to West Hollywood checks all of the boxes (and then some). For some, it’s easy to assume you know the tales of Los Angeles merely by reading the news or turning on TMZ. Visiting West Hollywood is proof that it takes properly exploring a city — sometimes even biking with a safety vest on throughout one of the most expensive shopping areas in the world — to really understand it and appreciate its rich, eclectic, (and sometimes downright insane) history.
Like with anywhere, the people make the place, but there’s something special about the city of West Hollywood, those that inhabit it, and the historic landmarks that define it. There’s a reason why it has a magnetic pull and why it’s even more difficult to leave.
To learn more about West Hollywood and all that it has to offer you, visit visitwesthollywood.com.
Virgin Atlantic flies direct between London Heathrow and LAX with return fares starting from £456 per person, including complimentary food, drink, inflight entertainment and taxes. For further information visit www.virginatlantic.com or call 0344 8747 747. This fare is available for departure on 16th January 2023 and is for seven nights. Prices given are correct as of 12th December 2022 and are subject to change.
Words Kelsey Barnes
