For the tenth time, I found myself watching steam rise from afar, staring down at my all-time favorite country from the plane. But this time felt different. I finally had my driver’s license in my pocket — and with it, a whole new kind of freedom.

I wanted to feel the sweeping, otherworldly beauty of Iceland’s Highlands, but I also wanted to stick to roads that a hybrid rental could handle. Steep climbs, river crossings, and car-breaking tracks? Not exactly beginner-friendly.

That’s where my journey with Hertz Iceland began.

Wild, but Not Reckless

If you’ve ever dreamed of driving into Iceland’s Highlands, you’ve probably heard of the infamous F-roads. Truly legendary: rugged, steep, and often crossed by unpredictable rivers. For many, they’re the ultimate adventure. For me, just starting out as a driver, they were a little too much.

So I gave myself a challenge: chase that Highland feeling without diving into risky territory. Wild, remote, but still accessible. What I didn’t realize then: this car wouldn’t just be my transport. Over the next weeks, it would become my shelter, my campsite, and my partner in crime!

Leaving Reykjavík

I only spent a night in Reykjavík before my adrenaline was pushing me out of the city. Driving solo for the first time in Iceland was pure freedom. The best part? You can stop anywhere. A “30-minute” route often stretches into two hours, thanks to waterfalls, detours, or simply staring at the horizon.

Out here, landscapes feel otherworldly. No wonder Iceland has been the backdrop for shows like Game of Thrones, Interstellar, and Star Wars.

The Road to Þakgil

After lunch in Vík, I craved something wilder. A quick search led me to Þakgil, a hidden valley about 40 minutes away. The only way in? A 15 km gravel mountain road. And what a road it is. Before I drove up there, I did check out the local campsite first as I was a bit insecure about my driving skills and my first mountain road. But soon I felt that the easier option was no choice for me.

Entering the road, I soon realized that sometimes you just have to be brave! The landscapes were so beautiful I could not stop crying.

The road starts innocently enough, but soon you’re winding deeper into a hidden world. Steep green cliffs rise on either side, glacial rivers appear out of nowhere, the gravel twists and drops, blind hills test your courage.

I arrived in heavy rain, yet I stood mesmerized by the valley, rain dripping off my hood, feeling completely alone but not lonely. Þakgil has no big facilities, but there’s a mysterious cave inside a mountain with a barbecue and benches lit only by candles. It’s like a fairy tale.

I just ran to fill my pot noodles with hot water coming straight from the tap and enjoyed this atmosphere to the end of the day.

I ended up sleeping in the back of my car instead of pitching the tent, listening to the rain and feeling so deeply connected to this place.

Driving back out the next morning, confidence filled me, but other campers and I were a bit worried about the road conditions after such heavy rainfall.

Lord of the Rings music on full blast, tires crunching gravel — I left knowing this was already one of the most unforgettable drives of my life and that I wanted to return when it’s sunny. Thankfully, the road was okay to drive, and I arrived back on the Ring Road safely, my heart rate slowly settling back to normal — ahah.

Tips for Þakgil:

• Gravel road, no F-road. Safe if driven slowly
• Gravel protection insurance recommended
• Best time: late June–September, but always check road conditions
• 2WD possible in summer; 4×4 adds comfort

Skaftafell: Sleeping Under Glaciers

The next day, I made my way to Skaftafell Campsite. Along the road I took various detours, stopped at the world’s largest lava field (Þjórsárhraun), and picked up my first hitchhikers ever! They shared stories, I offered shelter from the rain — a perfect reminder that travel is as much about people as places. When looking for a public bathroom after Vík (Laufskálavarða WC), I also found another little detour inland which takes about 30 minutes if you don’t drive further inland towards the F-Roads. Here you take the 209 and 208 — but always follow the signs back to Road 1. If you bump into the F208, you’re too far north and should just turn around.

Skaftafell is more developed, social, and tucked under towering glaciers — perfect for solo travelers seeking nature and community. Even in July, the nights were cold, and curling up in my sleeping bag with the car doors open offered mountain views I’ll never forget.

Tips for Skaftafell:

• Accessible via Ring Road. No 4×4 needed
• Best time: year-round (winter access may be limited)

East Iceland – Chasing Rainbows and Changing Plans

I eventually reached a friend’s farm in East Iceland, where I spent a week working with horses and joining their tours. The fjord always feels like home — but I knew the road would call me again.

I had planned to complete the full Ring Road, yet something inside me shifted. About two hours going north, a giant double rainbow stretched behind me, almost as if whispering: turn back. For me, it’s hard to explore in a rush. I think that’s what was holding me back.

The south I know quite well and can explore further off the touristy parts which I had already seen.

After a call with my mom and Fleetwood Mac’s “Go Your Own Way” blasting from the speakers, I listened to my gut. I turned south again to explore further.

Sometimes adventure means sticking to your plan. But for me it means listening to yourself and learning how to make decisions that feel good. It taught me the essence of Iceland: follow your gut, not your itinerary.

And it led me to one of the most beautiful drives of my life: the Öxi Mountain Pass (Road 939).

The Öxi Mountain Pass – or the Gates to Rivendell

Instead of the ring road, I took Route 95 south from Egilsstaðir without knowing it. I didn’t check maps, I just followed the suggested route and couldn’t believe what I had gotten myself into.

First, a road that winds gently through quiet valleys and past tiny farmhouses where sheep graze like they own the land. The landscapes reminded me of the beginnings of Landmannalaugar (the famous Highland base).

The landscape shifted with every kilometer — one moment I was driving alongside rivers sparkling in the late light, and then came the turn onto Route 939 — Öxi Pass.

I was climbing higher into the mountains, with views that seemed to stretch back all the way to the fjord I had just left. It was calm, almost meditative. Hardly any other cars passed, giving me that rare feeling of being completely alone with Iceland. From moments being covered in fog alone on the top of the mountain to then looking all the way down into the valley — which felt like entering Rivendell.

A modest little sign, easy to miss, pointing me away from the main road. What started as a quiet valley drive quickly turned into something far wilder. Öxi is a summer-only road with jaw-dropping valley views. It’s steep and spectacular — highly recommended if conditions are safe.

Tips for Öxi Pass:

• When coming from north: Take Road 95 from Egilsstaðir → continue on 939, rejoining Road 1. Best driven north to south for the views. Always check https://umferdin.is/en before attempting
• From the south: Take Road 1 → turn onto 939 → continue to meet Road 95 toward Egilsstaðir
• Best time: Summer only (June–September). Closed or dangerous in winter
• Car: 2WD absolutely manageable, but a 4×4 is recommended for steeper sections if coming from the south going up north

Back South: Þakgil in Sunshine

From the wild solitude of Öxi, I followed the Ring Road back down south. A day behind the wheel didn’t scare me — not here, not in Iceland, where time feels different. The light never really fades, and the horizon keeps pulling you forward.

Being alone at night on the road is something special. If you can, I do recommend that you use the night and explore tourist sites like the glacier lagoon when no one else is there.

I returned to Skaftafell early in the morning, the same campsite where I had huddled in my car at the beginning of my trip under pouring rain.

After a few hours of sleep I laced up my hiking boots and walked toward Vatnajökull (the largest ice cap in Europe). Iceland truly teaches you patience, and in return, it shows you magic when you least expect it.

This day I couldn’t resist one more drive to Þakgil. The first time, the valley had been wrapped in rain, mysterious and moody. This time, sunshine poured over the cliffs, revealing colors I hadn’t even noticed before — moss so green it looked unreal, shadows shifting over the rocks. The road there still demanded my focus — blind hills, gravel, twists and turns — but instead of nerves, I felt nothing but excitement. It was like visiting an old friend, now showing me its brighter side and the confidence I had gained over the weeks behind the wheel.

Skógar Camping – A Midnight Hike and Waterfall Views

On my way back towards Reykjavik, I spotted the majestic Skógafoss again (a waterfall with a single drop of 60 meters), its mist rising against the sky. Curious, I took a turn to check out the campsite nearby — and somehow landed the very last spot, parked right in front of the waterfall. Exhausted and a bit lonely, I found myself in the best kind of company: wonderful travelers from Croatia, who reminded me that connection can happen anywhere. That night, I hiked up to the river feeding Skógafoss under the midnight sun — a quiet, meditative adventure before sleep.

The next morning, tourist buses arrived super early, and I decided to leave the crowds behind and start my Highland adventure.

On the Edge of the Highlands

After a few days chasing glaciers and valleys, I craved something new. Something closer to the Highlands — but still manageable for my trusty hybrid.

My next stop was Keldur, an ancient farm just off the Ring Road. From the 264, I turned inland onto Route 268, a gravel road that felt like a quiet threshold into wilder lands. Soon I joined Route 26, heading deeper toward the mountains. The road wound alongside the Þjórsá, Iceland’s longest river, rushing down from the Hofsjökull glacier. It felt like slipping into the Highlands through a hidden back door — wild and remote, yet still manageable in my little car.

I followed the road all the way up to the Highland Center Hrauneyjar, the last real outpost before the Highlands take over completely — and the final chance to refuel.

The further I drove, the sharper and darker the mountains became.

When I reached Sigöldufoss — its waterfall framed by black lava and neon-green moss — I knew I had found the taste of wilderness I was searching for.

I could have continued onto the F208, but I stopped where the asphalt ended. This was far enough. I had touched the edge of the wild without pushing myself beyond my limits. The moonlike landscapes of that day are still vivid in my memory, a reminder that balance — between daring and holding back — was the real secret of this trip.

Traveler Tips

• Talk to your rental provider about road suitability and insurance
• Camp when possible — even car camping under Iceland’s sky is magical
• Take your time; the in-between moments are the real highlights
• Follow your instincts over a strict itinerary
• Always check vedur.is for weather and road conditions
• You can’t really miss F-Roads — they are marked clearly like this:

The Endless Days

One of the strangest, most wonderful gifts of Iceland in summer is that the day never ends. After hours of driving, exploring, and soaking it all in, I should have been exhausted. But instead, the midnight sun filled me with energy I didn’t know I had.

After nearly more than 10 hours on the road I wasn’t ready to stop. So I kept driving west, chasing the golden glow. At Reykjadalur, I hiked up into the steam-filled valley and sank into a hot river at midnight — a natural hot spring, warm enough to ease every muscle I thought would collapse.

And then? I just rode the wave of light and freedom until it was time to hand back my Hertz car at the airport. It was coated in a fine layer of dust — the perfect souvenir. Handing over the keys felt like saying goodbye to a travel partner.

Reflections

From the mystical valley of Þakgil to the raw mountains of Öxi, from the blue glow of the glaciers to the steaming river at Reykjadalur — Iceland showed me its wild heart.

And the best part? I found my own rhythm in it. A mix of freedom and caution, spontaneity and safety. That balance is what made this journey unforgettable.

The key? Follow your gut. Respect the weather and road conditions. Take your time. And remember: Iceland rewards curiosity, patience, and the courage to explore beyond the obvious roads.

Recommended Roads & Detours in this article:

South Coast → Þakgil (near Vík)

South Coast (Selfoss Route) → Edge of the Highlands

• From Selfoss, take Route 30, then Route 32 along the Þjórsá River
• Leads toward Sigöldufoss and the “moon-like” landscapes of the Highlands
• Asphalt ends where F208 begins — a perfect turning point for 2WD drivers

South Coast (Hella/Keldur Route) → Highlands via 268 + 26

• From Hella, detour to the turf houses at Keldur
• Then follow Route 264 → 268 (gravel) → connect with Route 26
• Passes the Highland Center Hrauneyjar (last fuel stop)
• Remote but fully manageable without river crossings

East Iceland → Öxi Mountain Pass

• From Egilsstaðir, take Route 95 → then Route 939 (Öxi Pass)
• From the south: Take Route 1 → turn onto 939 → continue until it joins Route 95 into Egilsstaðir

Bonus Detours (Ring Road Alternatives)

• Laufskálavarða Circuit (Road 209): A short, scenic loop off Route 1
• Road 268 + 95: Lesser-known, quieter drives through valleys and farmland
• Perfect for avoiding traffic and seeing a softer side of Iceland

Words by Karoline Kopka

Car provided by Hertz