Is Mexico’s food capital on your ‘must visit’ list? We explored the city to find the best restaurants, street vendors and markets, chatting to top chefs in the region to understand more about the real food of Oaxaca.
Quickly becoming one of the most sought-after regions to visit in Mexico, Oaxaca has inherited the fitting label as the country’s food capital; and for good reason. From classic national dishes done well, to a location where you can sample distinctly Oaxacan cuisine; such as tlayudas or Oaxacan tamales, the breadth of variety in Oaxaca is undeniable. A surge in showcasing traditional dishes with a modern twist, particularly amongst the emerging generation of chefs is on the up; such as inventive ways to present the region’s most well-known dish of mole; (a sauce based recipe comprised of dried chillies, nuts and seeds, that we will return to later in this article).
Wandering through the city, you’ll soon spy a huge number of vendors hugging street corners, offering everything from memelas to nieve (Oaxacan ice-cream which uses fruit and ice as a base as opposed to cream). You’ll also discover bespoke bakeries that serve local Mexican sweet breads and fresh sourdough loaves infused with local spices.
It may be the city that is recognised as the bustling heart of the region, yet it is in the far-reaching districts where you can find fresh, unique ingredients. Made up of eight districts all with varied altitudes and climates, it is these contrasting environments that produce the distinct ingredients discovered in Oaxacan cooking.
An ingredient native to the mountainous town of Cuicatlan is chile chilhuacle, which is one of the chiles used to create Oaxaca’s most well-known dish; mole. Made with chillies, seeds, spices and nuts, these ingredients are roasted before being ground into a paste and fried again to make this iconic sauce (in a very brief nutshell).
The search for the best mole in Oaxaca is an arduous task, with at least one of the seven established varieties from the region offered in most local restaurants (a further 570 varieties of mole can be discovered across the region, with many villages creating their own unique recipe using rare locally grown chilies). Yet there was one location we knew we had to try for the very best traditional mole, which involved a 45-minute journey out of the city to the town of Ziamatlán.
Mi Tierra Linda
Best for traditional mole
Mi Tierra Linda (which translates to ‘my beautiful land’) is the creation of Juana Hernandez, and opened 19 years ago. “We started as a fonda” Hernandez explained; a small shop front instead of a restaurant, that offers no more than four tables and a far more basic offering as opposed to the spacious restaurant of today. After being made redundant from her previous job as a lawyer, Hernandez decided to try her hand at cooking, which back then was never a career choice; it was a way of life. “Here, it is tradition that if you are a woman, you must learn to cook,” explained Hernandez’s son and chef Ovidio Perez. Coming from a farmer family and traditional community, at just seven years old Hernandez learned to cook from her Mother and Grandmother.
Fast forward to the present day and Hernandez has created quite the name for herself, with chefs from across the globe making a beeline to the small town of Ziamatlán to visit Mi Terra Linda and cook alongside Hernandez. Ahead of a seven-week residency in Mexico, René Redzepi, the three Michelin star chef of Noma in Copenhagen travelled extensively through Mexico to explore the nation’s cuisine, choosing to learn from Hernandez. Next month, Santiago Lastra from the Mexican Michelin awarded restaurant Kol in London will be returning to cook with Hernandez. With a deep understanding of how to use local ingredients alongside her experience using traditional cooking methods steeped in tradition, Hernandez began to cement her name in the Oaxacan cooking world; and I soon understood why.
If it’s mole you’re looking to consume, here this dish is the star of the show. The mole amarillio (almond based) and mole verde (pumpkin seed based) are made with an uplifting fresh sauce.
Traditionally, the moles negro and estofado have a far smokier flavour profile, and Hernandez’s versions were both astonishingly unique. However, it was the coloradito that stole the show; with wood and charcoal flavours, achieved from the careful roasting of individual chillies; it was truly exceptional.
Available by reservation only, if you’re looking for the best mole in the region Mi Tierra Linda should be top of your list. Keep an eye out for Hernandez’s cookbook, which launches this June.
Mi Tierra Linda is located in Ziamatlán, 40 minutes from Oaxaca city
Levadura de Olla
For incredible Mexican cuisine with twist, using Oaxacan ingredients
The regions of Oaxaca and the wide range of ingredients available has had a huge influence on the restaurant Levadura de Olla, the brainchild of 26-year-old Thalia Barrios. “There is a big difference between food culture in the city and smaller communities,” says Barrios. Growing up in San Mateo Yucutundoó, located in the mountainous area of the province, how and when ingredients were available had a huge influence on her community. “The difference is availability; this will dictate what you eat. You need to work with what is available.” Seasonal ingredients sit at the core of Levadura’s ethos, which has led her to travel across the state to source produce – including travelling to the Saturday market of Tlaxiaco, located 3 hours from the city at least four times a month.
Levadura de Olla – which translates to ‘clay pot yeast’ is a nod to her grandmothers who inspired the restaurant concept; one made mole, whilst the other specialised in bread. The restaurant represents the signature flavours of Oaxaca, whilst presenting an unconventional set of dishes. Having recently received a Michelin star for Levadura, along with the 2024 Mexico Young Chef of the Year Award, it’s safe to say Barrios is cementing her name as one to watch in the Mexican cooking scene.
With a menu split into four sections; celebratory, traditional, ancestry and creative proposals, the wide spectrum of distinctly Mexican ingredients and flavours is evident by reading the menu alone. The guava mole with fresh gambas is a delicious and entirely exceptional combination of flavours. Accompanied by battered cauliflower and a never-ending serving of corn tortillas, it provides the perfect balance of sweet, rich and hearty. True to her word on her love for tomatoes, the Oaxacan native tomato dish is a show stopping starter for those who love this vegetable. From wild mushroom mole to barbacollita tamale, if you’re looking for Oaxacan food that pushes the boat for using local, unique Oaxacan ingredients that dances on the experimental side, Levadura is a must visit.
Location:
C. de Manuel García Vigil 304,
RUTA INDEPENDENCIA,
Centro,
68000 Oaxaca de Juárez
Street food in the city
For a true representation of Oaxacan cuisine
No trip to Oaxaca is complete without strolling through the cobbled streets and dipping out to visit a local vendor. From elote (grilled corn dressed in cheese, chili, mayo and a zingy salt) to chapulines; a local delicacy of dried grasshoppers, often seasoned with salt, lime and Chile. The streets of Oaxaca are arguably the best place in the city to appreciate true Oaxacan cuisine. For those on a budget, this is certainly the best option.
Memelas are a Oaxacan born breakfast staple, and can be enjoyed alongside a hot cup of atole – a traditional Mexican beverage which is masa-harina (corn flour). This open-faced corn tortilla is layered with fresh ingredients and meat. Pick a few up for breakfast from Memelas San Agustín.
Look out for the Tortas La Hormiga food truck, which offers classic tortas for 20-30 pesos.
Location:
Valentín Gómez Farias S/N,
Ruta Independencia,
Centro, 68000 Oaxaca de Juárez
For tacos, head towards 20 de Noviembre market and find a stand outside that reads ‘Compadre’ and ‘Tr Taqueria’ to eat with the locals. From tortas, chicken soup and hibiscus juice (the purple drink you’ll see served throughout the city), this spot does inexpensive food that locals will enjoy.
Don’t miss out on trying Oaxacan ice-cream; nieve. Visit El Niagara and grab two scoops for 40 pesos.
Alfonsina
For a faultless tasting menu and intimate ambiance
Whilst we’re exploring the best restaurants in Oaxaca, Alfonsina should be placed right at the top of your list. Located half an hour from the city on a residential street filled with identical looking houses, from the outside Alfonsina looks underwhelmingly like its neighbours. And this is exactly what you would expect; as the restaurant is based in what was once Head Chef Jorge León’s childhood home and where his Mother still lives. After working with non-other than Enrique Olvera for several years (creator on Pujol in Mexico City), León was inspired to create his own eatery.
Named after León’s Grandmother, Alfonsina is a family affair; his Mother Elvia runs the lunch service whilst Jorge orchestrates dinner. Once a tortilleria, this family home used to only make and sell corn tortillas that fed the local village. Fast forward 25 years and their garden has been transformed into an intimate courtyard, seating around 70 visitors, each travelling to this small town to try the León family’s cooking that they’ve undoubtedly heard so much about.
A focus on native ingredients that are readily available is fundamental for Alfonsina, as they work closely with local producers. A new day and set of ingredients will prompt Jorge and Elvia to create new dishes and sometimes a new menu. Jorge & Eliva’s cooking emphases the distinctive Oaxacan ingredients of the region, whilst proposing a contemporary approach to their country’s traditional cuisine.
With an intimate ambiance and seamless service, Alfonsina offers a five-course tasting menu for dinner, that quite frankly blew us away. Their take on a traditional fish tortilla served with a guachile sauce was a brilliant start, followed by an eggplant tamale filled with mole Amarillo. Next was mushroom soup, made with a toasted white bean base ground down into a flour, with thick oyster mushrooms and was completely exceptional. The fourth course was a tender sea bass fillet, that sat on a bed of estofado mole. Apples and bananas were used to give the sauce a thicker texture and was spellbinding. In terms of an overall experience, Alfonsina should not be missed.
Alfonsina is in San Juan Bautista la Raya, 30 minutes from the city by cab
Food Markets
To find the local, seasonal ingredients and dishes
No food search is complete without visiting the local markets. Uncover unique ingredients (worm salt, exotic meats such as armadillo and endemic chiles like chile chilcosle), chat to locals and get lost in the winding lanes of never-ending food stalls. Here are our top picks.
La Coscecha organic market is set in a charming courtyard north of the city and offers numerous local food stands for you to soak up. With outside seating under a canopy, fresh fruit and veg stands alongside markets full of salsas, it sits as a welcome oasis from the busy town.
Location:
C. Macedonio Alcalá 806,
RUTA INDEPENDENCIA,
Centro, 68000 Oaxaca de Juárez
Benito Juarez Market
The northern of two markets located close together, here you’ll find all your ingredient needs; from chilies to cheese and every other fresh produce you could dream up. At this market, you’ll be shopping alongside the locals for a truly authentic visit.
Pick up fresh tamales – our favourite can be accessed at the eastern entrance on Calle Miguel Cabrera, offered by the women holding baskets filled to the brim with tamales – Chipilin, a local, leafy herb was a favourite. For tejate – a local drink consisting of toasted maize, fermented cacao beans, toasted mamey (a tropical fruit) pits, and cocao flowers, visit the Flor de Huayapam stand, which more than likely will have accumulated a crowd. For more nieve ice-cream, visit Nieves Chagüita – ask for maracuya con mezcal; passion fruit infused with mezcal – heaven!
20 de Noviembre
Around the corner from Benito is 20 de Noviembre, which focuses more on prepared food with numerous restaurants, vendors and fondas – the ideal lunch spot. Visit Comedor Bety for Oaxacan tamales; more rectangular and wrapped in banana leaves. Fancy tlayudas? Stop by Comedor Chabelita.
La Casa del Tío Güero
For traditional Oaxacan food from a family run restaurant
The beauty of mole is that there is never just one recipe or way to cook it, so our search for this delectable and distinctly Oaxacan dish continued. With some wise words from the locals, we wandered down to La Casa del Tío Güero in the city. Unpretentious and authentic, this family owned business of 25 years has two generations of chefs running the eatery (formerly run by the father of the family, now led by his daughter) and is a local gem.
With economical prices (you’ll pay under £7 for a main dish of mole) and an unassuming menu, this is one for those keen to simply try great, traditional mole. Our favourite? Mole negro; a deliciously thick consistency with chocolate notes and smoky undertones. This recipe is made with three types of dried chilli; chilhuacle negro, Mexican pasilla and mulato, lovingly baked to achieve the chocolate and charcoal flavours. Discover eight traditional moles at this restaurant to tickle your taste buds.
La Casa del Tío Güero,
located at C. de Manuel García Vigil 715,
Centro, 68000 Oaxaca de Juárez
Quita Brava cooking class
To help you get the grips with true, Oaxacan cuisine
If you’re looking to try your hand at making your own Oaxacan cuisine, our pick is Quinta Brava. Set on the outskirts of the city on a serene farm, experience a cooking extravaganza that will send your taste buds into overdrive. Your day begins with a trip to the local market in Xoxocotlán to shop for ingredients, before returning to the tranquil outdoor farmhouse kitchen where you will cook and later devour a host of Mexican dishes at the end of the process. Learn how to create corn tortillas from scratch, memelas and empanadas. As a group, you’ll choose a three-course meal to prepare together, and a chance to appreciate the full process of how mole is made.
From using a metate; a traditional wooden press used to make corn tortillas, to cooking your creations on a komal, this is a true Oaxacan experience which will really help you get to grips with the local cuisine. If that’s not enough, you’ll also enjoy unlimited mezcal and beer throughout your lunch with a tempting fridge that remains open ‘at your leisure’ – saludos por eso!
Quinta Brava offers pick up and drop off from your hotel.
They are in Santa Cruz Xoxocotlán, 20 minutes from Oaxaca city
Pan con Madre
For the best sourdough cafe in the city
One of Oaxaca’s first sourdough bakeries, Pan con Madre was brought to Oaxaca in 2015 by self-taught baker Jorge Rodrigo Ocampo. With wheat being an ingredient not widely consumed in Oaxaca, the road to success for this bakery has been long and enduring, but now is one of the most successful in the city. From sweet breads such as croissants to their signature Goyitos (a scone-like bread with powdered sugar and cinnamon), rosemary ricotta rolls and conchas (a traditional Mexican sweet bread), they certainly have created a unique menu offering.
As European as a sourdough bakery in Oaxaca sounds, don’t be put off, as at least 50% of the customer base remains local throughout the year. “I adapted my bread to their palates and habits,” Ocampo explained, talking about his strategy in changing tack to focus on his local consumers. “I started making events for locals, made friends with the neighbours and joined local meetings.” Buying locally, donating leftovers and employing residents all contributed to the bakery’s acceptance and success. If you’re looking for a local, community driven bakery, Pan con Madre is our choice.
Location:
Oaxaca city;
Centro, 68000 Oaxaca de Juárez,
Oax., México
To summarise, Oaxaca uses some of the most unique flavour combinations and cooking methods in the country that you’ll be pressed to find elsewhere. One thing that all these eateries have in common? The wholehearted need to use local, diverse and in some cases indigenous ingredients found in the region. Travelling far and wide to source these rare components seems a given for many of these local spots, that each rely heavily on the traditional cooking methods they’ve learnt from their villages and loved ones. Despite being a tourist hotspot, the region of Oaxaca remains true to its roots, as ancestral traditions shine through in the menus and dishes.
So, if you’re looking for traditional, Mexican food with undeniably good ingredients, fascinating cooking methods with authentic roots, visit the food capital of Mexico and discover Oaxaca’s food secrets for yourself.
Words by Miranda Bunnis
