Hector Maclean’s Autumn/Winter 2026 collection, entitled Escape, is a touching tribute to his grandmother, Leokadia Osko. Described as a woman whose life was irrevocably shaped by war, loss, and resilience, Leokadia was displaced and lost everything that made up life as she knew it during the Second World War. Then, at a refugee camp, she met Mclean’s Scottish grandfather, Donald. He would visit her stall daily to buy some fruit. What began as a simple exchange grew into a love story born under extraordinary circumstances. “War is part of my history, and that sort of trauma and pain carries down through your family over generations,” says Maclean.
It is easy to spot this deeply personal and emotional narrative running through the collection, with darker yet romantic details included throughout. Hints of Donald can be spotted in the military-inspired tailoring and the more structured pieces. Leokadia, however, can be felt in the soft and feminine gowns draped to the ground. Their love is, perhaps, personified in the use of Scottish lace and traditional Polish details in the garments: a beautiful reflection of Maclean’s layered heritage. The prevailing mood is one of sombre strength. And, in a world where everyone is escaping from something, it is easy to feel included in Maclean’s collection.
The designer’s prior experience working with Vivienne Westwood continues to influence his design philosophy. He, too, adopts a fearless approach to fashion and embeds his own values into his work. In a world climate marked by uncertainty, the collection reasserts a belief both designers shared: an enduring opposition to war. Maclean has also continued his dedication to sustainability in this collection, using deadstock materials to minimise waste and rework fabrics wherever possible.
Image: Beril Naz Hassan
For those new to the designer, Maclean began designing and making clothes for his older sister when he was just eleven years old. In turn, she introduced him to the work of Hussein Chalayan, Alexander McQueen, and Vivienne Westwood – designers whose conceptual and political approaches would leave a lasting imprint on Maclean’s practice.
These early influences led the designer to Central Saint Martins, where he studied art, photography, and textiles. After graduating, he refined his voice through hands-on experience at leading fashion houses, including Mark Fast, JW Anderson, Jonathan Saunders, and Vivienne Westwood. At Vivienne Westwood particularly, Maclean developed a defining perspective: fashion can carry conviction, reflect authorship, and serve as a platform for personal and political expression.
Maclean debuted his first collection at London Fashion Week in September 2023 and has since received international acclaim. His designs have been worn by a diverse range of high profile figures, including Priyanka Chopra, and Ashley Graham.
Words and images by Beril Naz Hassan
