When you’re told you can’t or shouldn’t go somewhere in the world, there’s a certain kind of person who becomes more motivated to go there. Filmmaker Reinier van Oorsouw is that kind of person.
In a new film from Matador Network titled Iraq: Is It Really That Bad?, van Oorsouw and a pair of friends visit multiple regions in Iraq. From the vibrant streets of Erbil in Kurdistan to Baghdad’s bustling culture, van Oorsouw explores Akre’s markets, traditional cuisine, and historic landmarks.
In the 22-minute film, he takes viewers through Kurdistan’s stunning mountains, waterfalls and serene lakes, as well as historical sites such Babylon’s ruins, Saddam Hussein’s abandoned palace and the shrine of Raban Boya. In an era of overtourism, van Oorsouw not only avoids mobs of tourists one might find at more typical destinations, but also encounters a great deal of warmth and kindness along the way.
We chatted with van Oorsouw to learn more about his trip, the film and what visitors can expect if they travel to Iraq.
Why did you want to travel to Iraq and make this film?
The ancient stories about Babylon have always fascinated me, so visiting the remnants was a big part of my motivation. Besides that, I like to dive deeper into a country’s reputation. Iraq still has a very unsafe reputation though the war there ended well over a decade ago. Rather than speculating, I prefer to see it with my own eyes. I know that my visit is only a small and short impression. My goal was to demystify Iraq and to give viewers a general idea of how real life is, beyond what you see in the media.
What was the most surprising moment for you on your trip to Iraq?
That is actually the last moment you see in the video, which was the last night for us in Baghdad. We randomly started talking with Ivan, who was hanging out along the boulevard. He proposed to sing for us. It was a beautiful moment in which I experienced another level of hospitality and spontaneity.
Was there anything in Iraq that was not surprising and was exactly as you expected?
The food. It was not my first time in the region, so I knew I would be getting similar plates. I’m quite the foody, and happily my expectations were thoroughly met!
The film mentions some potential airstrikes nearby. Is this something people considering a visit should worry about?
Security is always an issue to check. If you do not feel comfortable, do not go. But do your research, break it down and see. If it feels worth it to go, go! An airstrike like this is very targeted, so the chance of it hitting you is decimal. It’s more the aftermath. If something just happened and, by chance, you rock up, it might get weird. For me, hypothetical situations can not be planned for. On trips like these, planning might work for two-thirds of a trip, but another third should be reserved for anticipating changes. Overall I felt really safe in Iraq, as well as Iraqi Kurdistan. If I hadn’t followed the news or heard from the embassy, I wouldn’t have known about these drone strikes.
You traveled with an Iraqi friend. Do you think it’s possible to visit Iraq without a local connection? Would you recommend hiring a guide?
Yes, you can. Baghdad and Erbil, for example, are relatively easy to travel and you do not necessarily need a guide or other local connection. It can give you an extra dimension if someone knows a lot about a place, opens doors or shows you things you wouldn’t have experienced as ‘a normal tourist.’ Depending what you are after, it can be a great addition, but not necessary. If I would’ve gone solo without making a story, I would have just rented a car and seen what happens. That was the approach for the previous episode I did in Iran. For this episode in Iraq, I also wanted to talk to people and hear their stories, so to bridge the language barrier, it was essential.
What’s next for the “Is It That Bad?” series? What’s a destination with a bad reputation that you really want to visit?
Nothing concrete yet, but I would love to explore Venezuela or Afghanistan. Venezuela has had millions of people leaving in the last few years, and I would like to discover how people who have remained there live and see what the country offers. For Afghanistan, I would like to see how you can travel around nowadays after the shift of power. So if there’s someone there who can help in those destinations, they can reach out to me.
