All Roads Lead To BVLGARI | The Calla Collection

For her debut as Creative Director of Leather Goods and Accessories at BVLGARI, Mary Katrantzou delves into the rich heart and history of Rome, Bvlgari’s birthplace and endless source of inspiration.

In her first collection for the brand, Katrantzou introduces the ‘Calla,’ a motif inspired by the Terme di Caracalla, a distinctly Roman landmark. Constructed in the third century AD, the Terme di Caracalla were celebrated as one of ancient Rome’s seven wonders. Named after Emperor Caracalla, these baths were central to social and cultural life in Rome.

The floors of these baths feature a unique fan-shaped polychrome mosaic composed of marble tesserae in rich, jewel-like tones—pearl white, amethyst, emerald, and gold. This distinctive pattern, which came to light after more than four decades during restorations in 2015 and 2016, was brought back to its former glory with the help of Bvlgari’s patronage.

“One of the first things I wanted to create for Bvlgari was a pattern, an identity: the Calla,” explains Katrantzou, Bvlgari Creative Director of Leather Goods and Accessories. “I was inspired by the intricate mosaics of the Terme di Caracalla, a fragment of Ancient Rome that formed the inspiration for the now iconic Bvlgari “Divas’ Dream” collection. That was the foundation for my first collection, a statement of intent. The motif, a sensuously curving fan, has a compelling femininity and universality, connecting with other cultures, other meanings. It links with the gingko leaf and with the calla lily. The ‘Calla’ has infinite interpretations – but “all roads lead to”…BVLGARI.”

Katrantzou’s collection pays homage to the historical and cultural significance of the Terme di Caracalla while infusing new life into Bvlgari’s legacy of craftsmanship. Each piece reflects the intricate mosaics and vibrant colors, blending ancient Roman artistry with modern design. This fusion of past and present captures the timeless elegance and innovative spirit of Bvlgari, making Katrantzou’s debut a fitting tribute to the brand’s storied heritage and its ongoing journey of artistic discovery.

For her inaugural Leather Goods and Accessories collection, Mary Katrantzou draws inspiration from ancient mosaic designs to create the ‘Calla’ motif. This motif is showcased through intricate matelassé and pavé crystal treatments on the iconic ‘Serpenti Forever’ silhouettes. Among these is the new ‘Serpenti Sugarloaf,’ a padded-volume nappa shoulder bag named after the exquisite and rare high-domed variant of Bvlgari’s signature cabochon cut. The detailed matelassé lines are meticulously engineered and crafted by expert Bvlgari artisans in the Maison’s historic leather goods atelier in Florence.

These pieces embody Bvlgari’s unique and unmistakable identity. In her debut collection, Mary Katrantzou has crafted Bvlgari Leather Goods & Accessories that seamlessly integrate the meticulous artisanship and gem-like elegance characteristic of the brand’s legacy as a renowned Roman High Jeweler with a rich, ancient history. Each item in this collection reflects Bvlgari’s distinctive and iconic essence.