Edotor’s Pick: Thameen Not Telling

Ok, I’m just going to start with the facts : 

  • I do not feel fully dressed without my perfume  
  • I love an expensive perfume
  • My credit card is well aware of my love for expensive perfume 

For this reason, writing about a perfume as my ‘Editors Pick’ product hardly feels like work. 

Thameen London collaborating with Harrods introduces ‘Not Telling’.

The fragrance ‘Not Telling’ is created with a range of notes and a rather unexpected inspiration for a 2024 release. The key inspiration dates back 40 years, to the 1980s. 

Perfumer and ‘Not Tellings’ creator Sophie Labbe under Thameen Londons’ artistic director Christopher Chong both having attended the Année 80 Exhibition at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs Paris found here their inspiration for their future creation for Thameen Londons bold new fragrance. 

Sophie Labbe describes ”It was a moment of total immersion in the aesthetics of the 1980s, with its flashy colours and warrior women in epaulette jackets. I was struck by the notion of their power, which I translated into this sophisticated alchemy of seduction.”

Labbé offers a contemporary and ultra-sensual version of the audacious fragrances of the 1980s.  

Exaggerated with amber and opulent carnal floral scents like the ’80s, Labbé explains, “I want to create a fragrance epitomising glamour, sensuality, power and yet something refined. First, I work on a heart built around a luminous infusion with an animalic Indian Tuberose Absolute. I combine it with Ylang Ylang essence to give it a sunny aura. Then, I add depth and roundness to this bouquet with Tonka Bean, Madagascar Vanilla Absolute, Australian Sandalwood and an Ambergris Accord.  Finally, I create a contrast with a fresh and sparkling top with a B*tchy Accord illustrated with a peachy facet of Italian Mandarin and Coconut Accord as a nod to the playful decadence of the ’80s. It gives the fragrance a bold and naughty signature, which adds contrast and modernity to the construction.  This fragrance is ultra-dosed, inevitably nostalgic and modern at the same time.”

Chong elaborates, “Ever since I was a child, I’ve always been amused by the lives socialites lead, especially the world Slim Aarons mythologised with his spontaneous portraits of these uber-style icons. For me, looking in from the outside encourages my imagination to embellish stories of the way they live because, in their coded and secretive world, they never tell. I plan to explore this Harrods Exclusive Collection more with future releases looking at vignettes of the High Life seen through my rose-tinted glasses, since I wouldn’t know what goes on in their world because they are not telling.”

Chong also described how he has enjoyed adding a perfume to the Thammen collection with a touch of humour given that when asked ” what scent are you wearing” the only answer you can give is a cheeky ‘Not Telling’.

Fragrance Notes:

  • Top – Coconut Water, Mandarin, Peachy Accord,
  • Heart – Tuberose, Vintage Lily, Ylang Ylang
  • Base – Ambergris Accord, Sandalwood, Tonka Bean, Vanilla

 

I sprayed ‘Not Telling’ and immediately I knew this was not your run-of-the-mill budget fragrance. 

It’s got a powerful depth to its smooth fruity notes. The coconut, mandarin and peach make themselves known creating a fresh scent complimentary to a lot of people’s tastes, but the richness of this fragrance comes pouring through with the Tuberrose and Sandalwood making it a perfect nighttime fragrance with fresh fruit notes. This combination is not one I would often describe as ”done to perfection”  but in ‘Not Telling’ it has hit all markers. 

With the 1980s being an inspiration for the fragrance, I had a few particular scents immediately in mind.

 ‘Not Telling’ totally remixed what I thought of the 1980’s fragrance, you certainly understood the reference without feeling like you had a young electric 80’s party girl perfume on. ‘Not Telling’ is refined, luxurious and mature. Perfect for those women aged 25-55 making a statement, they got the memo on how to win at life in 2024 whilst being seductive, glamorous and definitely not demure about it.

I found the scent to be very intense when I first applied it and I’d say it lasted around 2-4 hours, however, it does seem to be strong enough for those around me to enjoy as I received compliments 7 hours after application.

Little tip, I do spray perfume in my hair also I find this is one place where ALL fragrances last. 

Thameen Not Telling – Exclusively at Harrods – £375.00 100ml.