Olivia Black returned to the London Fashion Week runway for her second consecutive show at the Andaz London Liverpool Street. A year after her show Serendipity, this season Olivia took a slightly different approach. Named Wish You Were Here, the SS27 collection revisited themes of nostalgia, escapism and memory. “It was about memory, but not just things that had happened, things that were yet to happen.” The collection was sun-soaked, setting a tone of warmth, romance and tranquillity while looking towards the future with the same sense of wonder as the past. “I wanted guests to feel as though they were in a dream state and leave thinking, ‘I wish you were here.’”
That dreamlike feeling was established before the first look had even reached the runway. Sourced from a flower farm in Kent, colourful poppy-inspired floral arrangements lined the centre of the grand hall, with models walking between them in measured synchrony. Despite the grandeur of the setting, the clothes remained the focus, given enough space to speak for themselves.
Moving with a relaxed confidence, the models emerged in a pastel palette of greens, yellows, blues and soft pinks, alongside striped detailing, flowing dresses, sheer fabrics, relaxed tailoring and denim – a recurring element of Black’s design language. The collection’s effortless quality reflects Black’s own description of her design philosophy as “elevated basics” – pieces that are “well-tailored” and can be “dressed up or dressed down.”
The tension between softness and structure came through in a grey striped denim coat that quickly became the show’s standout piece. The cool-toned stripes, structured collar and flared silhouette gave the look a sharper edge, cutting through the collection’s softer palette without disrupting its sense of ease. Stripes appeared throughout the collection, though rarely demanded attention. Some were immediately visible; elsewhere, they revealed themselves through pleating, texture and layering, becoming a recurring detail rather than an overriding motif.
For more on Olivia Black go to www.oliviablack.co.uk
Words by Nancy Anekwe
Photography @oogunshakin
Makeup @craighamiltonartistry
Hair @makeupbyrossino
Nails @janelgrantnails
Stylist @harneyyy
Movement Director @giuseppe_maisto_84
Model manager @themodelsmode
Venue @andazlondon
Show Partners @bblondehair & @celldermauk
Show Sponsors @cloudninehair @eylureofficial @thegreenponycompany @curlsmith_official @cndworld@sweetsquared.nails
Looks made in London by @alpinodesigns
Goodie bags sponsor @by_renew & @lovebasiq
Production manager @bigsilverproduction
Back Stage production manager @maisonmardi___mgmt
Social media partners @georgiajasmincreativen
Drinks Sponsor @vin.ombra & @drinkbeli
Florist @ju_ju_dayo_
PR @blackprgroup
