Often, the hottest month in Oaxaca is in May. With average temperatures simmering around 30 degrees, the city is undoubtedly warm; resulting in red faced, over heated visitors flocking to shaded cafes or air conditioned museums to escape the mid-day heat. A city filled with cobbled streets, spellbinding street art and deep rooted ancestral cuisine, Oaxaca offers a multitude of opportunities for adventurers to explore. Irrespective of the temperature, darting between art galleries and taco stands is inevitable upon a short visit. So, after a long day of art spotting and tamale tasting, returning to a suitably cool, comfortable and well located hotel is a must. That’s why for our visit, we chose Los Amantes.  

Los Amantes (that translates to ‘the lovers’) is centrally located on the street of Ignacio Allende, and home to three vivacious buildings. All contain an array of deluxe hotel rooms, restaurants and bars, along with roof terraces that each offers superb views of Oaxaca’s iconic Santo Domingo church—scenery that’s hard to surpass.

The group have even crafted their own mezcal; Mexico’s famed smoky spirit (made from agave, the same plant as tequila) that we were invited to try over breakfast. You’ll quickly pick up that it’s never too early in Mexico. 

For many, it’s the artistic influences of Oaxaca that entices them to the city. Century old traditions of pottery, wood blocking and textiles are made in neighbouring towns and showcased throughout the city in markets, art shops and museums. 

For art enthusiasts looking to stay somewhere tasteful, Los Amantes poses as the ideal destination. The hotel brings together enthralling pieces of art from local artists, whilst paying homage to Mexican culture, traditions and artisanal production. Wondering around Los Amantes, you’ll spy an extensive collection of art from a range of artists, curated by the painter Guillermo Olguín for the hotel, alongside artisanal pottery and hand carved wooden furniture. In the aesthetics of Los Amantes, the best of Mexico is truly unveiled. 

However, Los Amantes provides much more than just impeccable shower pressure (yep, we made sure to check) and top tier breakfasts. So, let us take you on a brief hiatus, and help you to picture what your next holiday could look like. 

The Hotel

Now, for one of the most important features when choosing a hotel; the bedrooms, or more specifically the beds. And they did not disappoint. Whether you decide on the standard or master suite, each room comes with a scrumptiously soft bed, private bathroom and importantly, air con. Indulge in the master suite for double height ceiling space, an oversized bath tub and king sized bed that will guarantee a tranquil night’s sleep you’ve been daydreaming over. In the corridor leading into the suite, enjoy an open terrace that looks out onto the busy streets of Oaxaca, reminding you how central yet secluded your hotel find is. To reconfirm, the showerhead water pressure was flawless.  

The Mezcaleria

After just a few days in Oaxaca, you’ll quickly become versed with the phrase ‘mezcalito;’ a supposedly small (in many cases large) shot of mezcal, that has long been consumed by the Mexican people – and as of late, tourists. This tradition recounts the story of the working people, where a small sip of mezcal marked the beginning of their working day. Nowadays, a short stroll through the Oaxacan streets will likely be accompanied with shouts from shop fronts, beckoning you in for a ‘mezcalito.’ A sip of the sweet sap of Mexico is a must; but choosing where from is far trickier. For originality, one of the top spots is Los Amante’s Mezcaleria. 

Designed by the esteemed Mexican architect Guillermo Olgu, the Mezcaleria is where everything started for the Amantes Group. Upon entrance to the one room bar, you’ll quickly notice the number of items balanced, tied and trapesing down from the walls and ceiling. Over flowing with heirloom’s and Mexican treasures gathered from antique fairs over the years (since 2006), there’s a sense of ingenuity; almost like you’ve just walked into someone’s dining room. 

The small space that sits separately from the three vibrant houses (signally it’s slight separation from the group), offers a conservative number of seats; more specifically one long wooden bench, and a few miniscule alice-in-wonderland mint green chairs – a sign of humbleness, we were told. Despite its size, the narrow room offers plenty of individuality, and the set up stands as the perfect spot to swing by for a tipple; that of course, is normally mezcal.  

Here, you’ll be able to discover the traditional mezcal of Mexico in all its wonder. With a detailed explanation from the team, it’s your chance to discover all flavours; from the sweet to earthy. You’ll of course get the chance to try the Los Amantes selection of mezcals too, created in their distillery located just 50 minutes from the city in Tlacolula de Matamoros. 

The Food; Vaca Marina & The Los Amantes Terrace 

The dining options at Los Amantes are plentiful, with options for everyone’s needs; from a quick bite to a three-course meal. Starting the day off with breakfast at Vaca Marina will undoubtedly be the best decision of your day. From xochimilcas eggs; a flour tortilla drenched in green sauce, to a grasshopper omelette (that’s right, it’s exactly what it sounds like and oh, so good). The breakfast surpassed our expectations and ticked the traditional Mexican haute cuisine box; made even better by our chic, gracious waiter Carlos. 

Vaca Marina (which translates to sea cow) is firstly a fish restaurant, which is present in their lunch and dinner service. Soft octopus’ tacos, fried buttery scallops and tuna tiradito with pork rind and a punchy peanut sauce were all standouts. Situation on their terrace, at night you’ll be able to marvel at the lights of Oaxaca, and see the stunning Santo Domingo church lit up.  

If you’re looking for the best spot to watch the sunset with a cocktail in hand, hop over to The Los Amantes Terrace on the opposite street, located on the roof of their cornflower blue building. We witnessed an iridescent golden hazed sunset whilst sipping on a Citron Mezcal, and it was as angelic as it sounds. 

The Cocktail Bar: Guajolote de Oro

Tucked away on the ground floor of the hotel’s orange building is Guajolote de Oro, the Amantes cocktail bar. Also designed by Olguin, this carefully curated space is a celebration of life and death; and the devil is in the detail. Upon entering, from afar you’ll observe what appears to be indented walls, filled with semi-circle shaped arch ways. The textured walls are even made with maguey (also known as agave, the plant that mezcal is grown from), combined with an organic paint, a string like textured surface is created. 

Once positioned at their long, elongated bar; ideally with a cocktail in hand, you’ll slowly begin to discover subtle nods to bars theme. From a life-sized owl that overlooks the bar (a gift from a local village and representation that death is near), to various herbs and even garlic bulbs that cling to the walls in a bid to remove bad energy. Filled with candles that creates a warm hue, I’s apparent that the careful construction of this space is both intentional and ingenious.  

Here, it’s no surprise that mezcal is the star of the show. So, whether you’re ready to jump in with a mezcalito (strictly Los Amantes mezcal is served), or ease yourself in with a cocktail, there is an abundance of choices on the menu. Our favourite; Guajolote, a creamy mix of Cebu Joven, gin, Cointreau and milk, with a touch of grapefruit and lime to bring a tang of bitterness to the drink. And if you’re not quite ready for mezcal, tuck into one of their classics and position yourself by the window for an impeccable people watching spot.

And with that, the hiatus has come to an end. We hope we’ve successfully transported you to another land; one filled with mezcal, delicious food, lusciously soft beds and impeccable showerhead pressure. If you’d like any of the above to become a reality, we’d highly recommend that you book a visit to Oaxaca and stay with Los Amantes. 

For more info go to www.hotellosamantes.com

Words by Miranda Bunnis